Pattern Review | The Vernon Shirt by Cashmerette
I have always had curves, even when my whole body wasn’t quite so curvaceous, I have had an unwieldy bust, never being smaller than an F cup in my adult days. This means that some clothing is just a pain in the butt to get to fit nicely, shirts, or anything that fastens down the centre of the garment being the main problem.
Off the rack. shirts have never fitted me. I have either had to size up, which is never a good thing, or intricately safety pin together the shirt across my bust so it doesn’t gape or worse, have the buttons pop open!
Enter the Vernon Shirt. This pattern is a game changer!
I don’t make that statement lightly, it really is though. When the team at Cashmerette got in touch to ask if I’d like to collaborate on their next pattern launch I was naturally super excited. I love Cashmerette. I’ll be honest, my heart sank a little when I saw the pattern… ‘but I don’t wear shirts’ I thought. Then I thought some more. I used to wear shirts, until I got fed up with them not fitting me.
I said yes (obviously!) and I am so glad I did. The styling of this shirt is so beautiful, well designed and versatile. The shirt has 2 main views, but elements of each are interchangeable to mix things up and create your own style.
View A is a more simple and classic style. Both versions feature a burrito sewn yoke and a flattering shape to the body. View A has more classic sleeves with a narrow cuff. The collar is ‘standard’ sized.
View B has lantern sleeves, deeper cuffs and a full on collar, which I love!! It also features a covered button placket if you want to raise your game.
What you’ll need:
– Fabric in a quanity that matches the yield chart
– Interfacing for cuffs, plackets and collars
– 14 buttons for view B, 12 for view A and a button hole foot for your machine
Pattern & INSTRUCTIONS
As you would expect from Cashmerette this is a wonderfully inclusive pattern. It comes in a smaller size range, but as I fit in the original cashmerette curvy range, that is what I have focused on.
The fit options for Cashmerette patterns are always great and that is no different with the Vernon Shirt. The pattern is in 3 different cup ranges and there is a full bicep option for the sleeve, so if an adjustment here is something you need. to make, the work has already been done for you.
As I started to sew this pattern, it dawned on me that I haven’t sewn some of the elements I would need to tackle. I have made collars on coats, but not a shirt collar, and when I really stopped to look at the covered button placket my head hurt a bit to be honest! I needn’t have worried though as the instructions are so well written in a supportive style I whipped through everything with relative ease. I did get a bit unstuck with the sleeve binding and had to google for some images, but then I realised quickly what I needed to do.
Two days after I said yes to this collaboration, Covid hit my house. First my 8 year old and then me (and then the rest of the house!). As I sit writing this I am still not well and so I was feeling pretty awful and foggy headed as I made this… and thank goodness for make up when it comes to the photos lol! Having said that, I don’t think it affected my results, or my experience sewing the pattern. If anything it probably slowed me down, which is something I always struggle with but is always a good thing when you are trying new techniques.
I took my measurements, as I know a few covid kilos have hit my body of late and plugged them into the Cashmerette online calculator. It said I should make the 18GH pattern, graded to 22 at the waist, with a full bust adjustment too. I made my muslin based on this but did not add the FBA as I just didn’t really think I would need it. On checking my muslin, the fit overall was really good, but I had too much fabric at my waist. On my final, versions, I graded to a 20 instead and the fit is just spot on. I haven’t needed to make any other adjustments.
I couldn’t decide which version to make and so I decided to make 2 shirts at the same time. My first is a mix of the 2 views. It has the collar and button placket of view A, but the sleeves of View B. I chose to make it in a floral green poplin, having been inspired by one of the Cashmerette Vernon Shirts I’d been sent photos of in a floral style. As I was cutting though, I realised I had miscalculated my fabric quantity ( I’ll blame covid for this) and needed to make a very quick on the spot decision about what to do. The floral pattern on my fabric had a fine black outline, and so I thought it would. be good to create a contrast that would pick this up.
I had a lovely cotton self stripe shirting in my stash which came to the rescue and is now the cuffs, collar and placket for my shirt.
I wanted my second Vernon Shirt to be a bit more dressy, with the covered placket and bigger collar. I did consider making it in a sheer silk which I think would be lovely. Instead I opted for a burnout lace and viscose velvet fabric. What was I thinking!! I think the final effect looks good, but my goodness, this was not nice to sew, and add to that the amount of pressing and sharp edges I wanted to achieve I was starting with a challenge here. I’m going to blame covid for this choice too… do you see a theme here?!
As I’ve said already, I found the instructions really easy to follow. Even though some of the elements of Vernon Shirt pattern were new to me, step by step I got them done easily. Cashmerette patterns are really great for having clear steps to follow with plenty. of words of encouragement just when you will need them most – covered button placket, I’m looking at you!
Cashmerette Vernon Shirt – A game changer
Highly recommended pattern!
If you have a curvy bust, and have tried to wear shirts, you will get this. Be gone, the safety pins, or the oversized unflattering fits! This pattern has really brought shirts back into my wardrobe choices…. and I am going to make that silk version!