Size jumpsuit pattern hack made in a crisp green and white cotton

Pattern Hack | Zadie Jumpsuit Summer Version

I think I can safely say that the Paper Theory Zadie pattern really is a tried and true pattern for me. This is my 7th Zadie.

The thing that keeps me coming back for more is the incredible versatility along with the effortless casual chic that comes with it. It may be my 7th Zadie, but I only have two that actually follow the pattern exactly as it was intended.

I first became aware of the hype surrounding the Zadie pattern not long after I had started to sew. There was quite a commottion on Instagram and rumouring that a so called ethical fashion brand had stolen a sewing pattern designers work.

That pattern designer was Tara of Paper theory, and the rumour was sadly, not a rumour. From my POV though, this event was a good thing as it sped up my introduction to one of my favourite patterns and almost 2 years later I am still making it, and reinventing it.

Zadie Jumpsuit pattern hack in a black and white gingham linen

My Zadie Alterations

My Zadies are all based on the size 20, but I have made quite a few, now standard, tweaks to the pattern to fit my body better. For me, the body length on the pattern is too long and I start with a reduction in both the front and back rise, and also the bodice length. I know I could size down on the Zadie if I did an FBA on the bodice, but I actually like the looser fit that I get by sizing for my bust. It gives me a bit more in the wrap front which I benefit from when I wear it in terms of comfort.

My Hacks (so far!)

My versions of the Zadie have been varied

First make in a blackbird fabrics cotton – standard pattern, no sleeves
Sleeveless hack with shorts
Strappy hack with a drapey fabric
Ogden Hack with Gingham linen
Knit version in a viscose ponte
Colour blocked version in Tencel Twill
Pattern mash up summer colour block

The gingham linen Ogden-Zadie hack that I made last year was one of my most worn makes of last summer and a while back I decided I needed a new one for this summer. The months went by and for whatever reason, this project didn’t make it to the top of the pile. That was until The Fine Cloth Company asked me if they could gift me some of their new Washer Cotton and asked what I would make with it.

I don’t think it even took me 5 minutes to reply with my answer, a colour blocked Zadie summer hack!

my newest zadie jumpsuit pattern hack

Last year, my gingham make was a straight up mash up of the Ogden Cami and the Zadie Jumpsuit. Having worn it so much, I knew that the one thing I would change was to give the bodice a bit more coverage. It got me thinking about the best wrap bodice ever… the Cashmerette Roseclair.

I knew that using the Roseclair wrap would be a great way to update my bodice and so my new ultimate jumpsuit mash up is born. This Zadie is a little bit Ogden Cami, a little bit Cashmerette Roseclair and a lot of Paper Theory Zadie.

Where's the Ogden?

The main shape for the bodice top is Ogden Cami, the back piece is Ogden cami, phased into the pleated edge of the Zadie. The straps are also Ogden Cami.

Where's the Roseclair?

I adapted the shape of the bodice wraps using the Roseclair bodice pieces. I shaped this up to the ogden straps which gave me a lovely curve.

Building the new pattern

When I created the Ogden Zadie Hack last year, I overlaid the Ogden pattern onto the Zadie bodice pieces to edit my curves and create new pattern pieces (images of this and more info in the original Zadie hack post here ). This meant that I could reimagine the top of the bodice, but keep the bottom, the pleats and the wasist as as intended in the Zadie pattern. This time, I did the same thing, but using my new pattern pieces and overlaid the Roseclair bodice.

This is probably not the most scientific, nor professional way to do this, but it has worked for me to this point. I did have a bit of a challenge this time with the angle of the wrap edge on the Roseclair. I wanted to maintain the straps rather than having a sleeveless bodice and so it needed a little reshaping to all fit together. I am super chuffed with the result.

Zadie jumpsuit pattern hack using fine cloth co washer cotton

Zadie jumpsuit pattern hack into a short strappy style

Sewing it up

In order to construct the bodice, I took the following steps:

1. Stitched the darts in place on both the bodice and the lining and then stitched the pleats in place according to the Zadie pattern. I stay stitched the armsycs and the back neckline as well as the front wrap pieces.

2. I joined the back bodice to the front 2 bodice pieces on the side seam and repeated for the lining, remembering to leave the opening for the wrap belt as per the zadie instructions.

3. I lined up the exterior and interior pieces, right sides together and sewed along the top edges, leaving the openings for the straps as per the Ogden Cami instructions.

4. Attach the straps as per the Ogden pattern method and understitch the whole top neckline seam.

5. This is your bodice done! Baste the bottom edge of the lining and bodice piece together and join to the zadie trouser pieces. Note, I did top stitch a lot on the bodice, this was just for personal preference and not required.

My Fabric

I think the fabric that I used for this has helped to make it extra special. When the Fine Cloth Co asked me if they could gift me some of their new washer cotton, I said yes, but I’ll be honest, I didn’t really know what to expect as I hadn’t heard of it before.

The range comes in such a beautiful array of colours I was a bit spoiled for choice, but I was really drawn to the Parakeet Green. Having recently had some success with colour blocking on the Zadie, I thought another colour blocked version would be the way to go and settled on the green and a lush ivory shade.

The package arrived and I was not so sure it was going to work for my Zadie pattern hack idea as it is a lighter weight than I expected. The cotton is super soft and has a laundered feel, full of soft crinkles and wrinkles that just look effortlessly cool. I am no fan of ironing and so any fabric that is supposed to look wrinkled is a friend of mine.

I pondered for a week or so what I would do with this fabric. I desperately wanted to make the Zadie in this, but was it too light?

Then the super hot, and super humid weather landed in Auckland and all I wanted to wear was super light things.. I cracked on and finished my Zadie and I’m so glad I went with it.

Far from being too light for the pattern it is perfect, and when I say it is the softest cotton I have worn I am not kidding.. it is simply delicious!

My new favourite jumpsuit

This version of my Zadie is my best yet. It is so comfy to wear and with the additional bodice shaping from my Roseclair, it gives me a better coverage and confidence on the wrap. Especially has covid has not been kind to my waistline in the last year!

I did add a few things to this, including belt loops and a popper to keep the top of the wrap in place both of which stop me fiddling with the belts and wrap when I’m wearing it.

So, lucky number 7.. will this be my last Zadie. Absolutely not!