Pattern Review – The Sur Mon 31 Jacket by Chut Charlotte
This time last month, I did not know of Chut Charlotte patterns, but now I have this lovely jacket which has definitely smartened me up on a dreary lockdown Tuesday.
The team at Chut Charlotte contacted me back in September to ask if I would be open to wrtiting a pattern review for them, and in return I got to choose a pattern from their range.
There was no payment for this, and no obligation for me to write a positive review and so what follows is my very honest opinion of this pattern and my experience making the Sur Mon 31 jacket,
One of the reasons I haven’t heard of Chut Charlotte before is propably because all the patterns were in French and just not marketed to English speaking sewists until now.
They have been translating their pattern files so now we can all enjoy them which is certainly a relief to me not having to dust off my very rusty French A level ‘skills’ or spend my time with google translate.
The Chut Charlotte range is pretty extensive with patterns for both women and kids. I was quite tempted with a new bomber jacket patttern she has just released, but settled on the Sur Mon 31 jacket as it really is quite my style.
The Sur Mon 31
I was drawn to this jacket for a few reasons. It looks smart, but isn’t stuffy, the shape looked really flattering for a curvy body and the shaping and peplum back really stood out for me as a great feature.
I could see myself wearing this for meetings where I need a smarter edge to my usual jeans style…. or throwing this on for a date night out.
Oh for this lock down to be over!
The jacket is pitched as being for an advanced beginner, but to be honest there really isn’t anything complicated about the construction and I think a beginner who has a couple of projects under their belts could create a fab jacket from this pattern. So, if you have been wanting to sew yourself a jacket, but don’t like the idea of collars and lapels, this could be a great choice.
Pattern & INSTRUCTIONS
It’s worth noting that although the sewing pattern has been translated, there are still elements that are in French on the diagrams, and if you are buying on the website not all of it translates to English. This is nothing that a bit of google translate can’t help with. I do have some French knowledge and so managed with all the language points, but I am confident enough to say the diagrams were clear and well labelled and this wouldn’t stop anyone working it all out very easily.
One element I did struggle a little with with was the sizing as there was no measurement chart on the pattern page, except for the finishged measurements. There is however a full sizing chart with the pattern, which I have used here so you can get a better view of how you might fit into the pattern range before buying.
I have had this cotton – poly jacquard in my stash for quite a while now, with no plans as to what it would be. Instantly I had an image in my head of how the blue and gold would pick up the colours of my blue jeans perfectly and give a me a smart jeans look.
The fabric might have been a good style choice, but I’ll be honest it wasn’t fun to sew. The edges frayed to bits when I was cutting and so I serged all the edges before I started to sew.
The mix of poly threads and metallic threads in the jacquard weave gave the fabric a really bouncy finish and meant it was tricky to get a really crisp edge to the jacket. I managed this with some top stitching to all my seams (not in the instructions) and that really sharpened up my edges.
For my lining I used this gorgeous dark blue Cupro.
Oh La la – what a style
Sewn up a treat!
Making this jacket was very straightforward. I did make a muslin as I wasn’t 100% on sizing. I settled for a 48 and about in an inch added to the back bodice width across the centre (still narrowing to the same width at the peplum edge). I also narrowed the shoulders by an inch each side and graded in the front piece to align with this.
I was looking for quite a tailored look from my jacket which I just wasn’t getting on the shoulders and so I added some shoulder pads (not in the instructions).. I say, that but I actually used the foam pads from a bra folded in half as I didn’t have any shoulder pads. I think this addition really made a difference to the overall look for me.
Sur Mon Style!
I really enjoyed sewing up this jacket. The process was straightforward and the pattern well drafted.
The style turned out just as flattering as I had hoped and I am already thinking about making a summer linen version as this is a great throw on addition to my work wardrobe.