Pattern Review – Cambria Duster Coat by Friday Pattern Company
I started out this year with the Papercut Nova Coat in my grid of 9. I had a plan for a new coat and I had thought this would be the one. I don’t know what it was that gave me second thoughts, but I started to look around.
My next plan settled me on the Shoalhaven Shacket from Muna and Broad. I really love this pattern and was truly inspired by Leila’s grey check version. I had my sights set on this, and then I stopped and thought about it. As much as I liked it, It wasn’t really my style and moreover, I thought it would make me look like my mum, something I have spent my whole adult life trying to steer away from (long story….).
I happened to be perusing my favourite NZ Website (Miss Maude) when I came across this pattern I hadn’t to this point seen before. It seemed perfect for me, … flaring out from the bust line with a big lapel, a style I knew would be flattering on my curvy body but casual enough in style that it wasn’t a big and heavy tailored coat.
And so I started planning.
I have had this fabric in my stash for almost a year now. I bought it with the intention of sewing a coat, but I wasn’t confident in my sewing ability when it arrrived and so it has stayed marinating in my stash (thanks @kat.makes) for a year for me to work this out.
I thought I had enough fabric for it, but as I was cutting I reaslied that was not the case and so I rescued things by shortening the overall length by 5″ and cutting a contrast collar. Lucky for me, both of those on the fly changes have worked out well!
The Cambria Duster is a versatile and staple layering piece. It has a dramatic, wide draped collar. with ties in back to either pull it in and create shape from the back, or as a fastening at the front.
Pattern & Instructions
I haven’t made anything from Friday Pattern Company before so this was a new brand experience for me. As an aside, I love the little character on the pattern – nice touch.
I wasn’t entirely certain which size to make. I often am in bigger sizes on my bust than my waist/hips but I wasn’t sure that grading would work here as I didn’t want to lose the shape of the coat.
I’m glad I sized down!
I made an XL and I think it fits great. My fabric doesn’t have as much drape as many I have seen made in this. I do think for the drapier duster look I would need the XXL. For reference my FB is 116cm.
One thing that is worth calling out, is just how clearly the instructions are written. The thing I especially loved were the words of encouragement throughout and the really friendly tone in which they were written. Even on the trickier collar element everything was super clear and I didn’t need to refer to a sew along or any other help.
Overall the Cambria Duster jacket came together pretty quickly and was a surprisingly quick(ish) and super satisfying sew.
As is recommended in the pattern, I chose to bias bind and Hong Kong seam finish all my seams.
Personally, I found this incredibly satisfying and gives an edge of professional finish, especially to many of the seams which do show as you move with the coat.
To do this, I used A LOT of black linen bias tape. My tip when making this is to double check you have enough tape as you get through a lot of it!
Something a litte different..
The combination of the fabric, the contrast lapel collar and the overall style of this jacket has, I think, worked really well.
This isn’t something I am seeing all over the place, which gives me a satisfying feeling of of ‘one-off-ness’.. even if I do look a little bit like a wizard!!
This won’t be my last…
I really enjoyed making this jacket and more than that I have been really enjoying wearing it.
It’s filled a gap in my autumn winter wardrobe and I will definitely be making more!